Techniques for Builder Tips
To ensure that your clients are getting the best performance out of your Builder Tips service, we have compiled a list of common questions and solutions below.
What if my nail enhancement is lifting, or pops off completely?
First step, ensure your prep is done properly. Removing all visible cuticle on the nail plate, cleansing away all oil, moisture & debris, and gently roughing up the natural nail with a 180 grit buffer is essential.
Nails can only withstand a certain amount of daily pressures based on the length and apex thickness. If you notice this is happening with a longer nail length, you’ll need to reinforce the apex of the nail with an extra layer of Builder In A Bottle for extra strength. Alternatively, you can always swap your medium-long length extension for a shorter length.
What if my Builder Tip is popping off but the Builder In A Bottle layer is still on the nail?
This sounds like an adhesion issue. Take a look at your natural nail c-curve and compare to the following images.
Moderate C-Curves
Moderate c-curves will be the most similar to the Builder Tip curvature. If you, or your client has moderate c-curves and are experiencing your Builder Tip separating from your Builder In A Bottle layer, take the file side of your buffer/file duo and manually etch the inside of the Builder Tip to create a stronger bond.
Flat C-Curves
Flat c-curves will work best with a cured layer of Builder on the nail plate before applying your Builder Tip. This is because the curve of the Builder Tip will be too severe for flatter nails which causes extra pressure pushing the Builder Tip into the natural nail when cured. After prepping, dehydrating and priming the nail plate, apply a thin layer of Builder In A Bottle to each nail. Turn the hand over and allow the Builder to settle into the natural apex of the nail. Flip back over and immediately cure for a full 30 seconds before continuing on to your Builder Tip application.
Pronounced C-Curves
Pronounced c-curves will also work best with a cured layer of Builder on the nail plate before applying your Builder Tip. This is because the curve of the Builder Tip will be too flat for more pronounced curves which causes extra pressure pulling the Builder Tip away from the natural nail when cured. After prepping, dehydrating and priming the nail plate, apply a thin layer of Builder In A Bottle to each nail. Allow the Builder to settle for 10-15 seconds and cure for a full 30 seconds before continuing on to your Builder Tip application.
What if the Builder in a Bottle is seeping from under the tip during application?
If you see Builder spilling out onto the cuticle area during application, be very mindful of the angle in which you’re applying your Builder Tip. Hold the tip at a 45 degree angle and slowly tilt down while keeping the pressure secure at the base of the tip. This will push all of the gel up towards the tip of the natural nail.
If you see Builder spilling out on the sidewalls or past the tip of the natural nail, you’re using a little too much Builder to apply your tip. Remove the nail before curing, wipe away excess product and reapply using a smaller bead of Builder in a Bottle to the Builder Tip.
What if I’m in-between Builder Tip sizes?
If your natural nail is in between two Builder Tip sizes, always size up to prevent squeezing the natural nail. Choose the size that’s slightly too big and gently file the sides until you have the perfect fit from sidewall to sidewall.
What if the GELFX color is separating from the Builder Tip?
If you notice your GELFX nail color peeling away from your Builder Tip enhancement, increase adhesion by gently buffing the Builder Tip enhancement with the buffer side of your buffer file duo and cleanse before applying Liquid Etch to increase adhesion.